Ask a Tailor: Suit Styles, Fabrics, Terms & More

Ask a Tailor: Suit Styles, Fabrics, Terms & More

The right suit can boost your confidence and change how you show up in the world—whether it’s for a job interview, a date, or just another day at the office. But to make a suit truly work for you, fit is everything. That’s where a tailor comes in.

A great tailor won’t just fix sleeve lengths. They’ll guide you on fit, fabric, style, and all the subtle details that turn a decent suit into a sharp one. To help decode the world of suiting, we’ve pulled together answers to some of the most common questions you should be asking your tailor.

Q: What suit style should I choose?

A: That depends on you. Your lifestyle, your job, and your comfort zone should all factor into the choice. Are you after a versatile, everyday suit? Or is this a one-time piece for a special event? Do you lean toward bold, fashion-forward cuts or something more timeless?

The best way to kick off a fitting is by showing your tailor a few visual references—photos of cuts, lapel styles, or overall looks you like. Maybe you’ve seen a sharp Italian-style suit with wide lapels, or a clean American two-button classic. Bring those in. A good tailor will use your preferences as a jumping-off point and advise what works for your frame, your style, and your needs.

Q: What’s the difference between tailored, made-to-measure, and bespoke?

A: It comes down to how customized you want your suit to be.

• Tailored: This usually refers to off-the-rack suits that are then adjusted by a tailor. These tweaks might include taking in the waist, shortening sleeves, or tapering trousers. It’s the most affordable option and can still result in a sharp fit with the right alterations.
• Made-to-Measure: Here, a base pattern is modified to your exact measurements. You’ll choose your fabric, fit details, and sometimes even small design options like lapel width or pocket style. It’s a step up from tailoring and offers more personalization without going full custom.
• Bespoke: This is the top-tier option. Bespoke suits are built entirely from scratch, based on your body and your preferences. That means custom patterns, multiple fittings, and fully hand-sewn construction. It takes longer, costs significantly more, but delivers a suit that’s one-of-one and made just for you.

Q: Does the type of fabric really matter?

A: Absolutely. Fabric isn’t just about feel—it affects how, when, and where you can wear the suit.

• Heavier fabrics like wool flannel and tweed are best for cooler months. They provide warmth and structure.
• Lighter fabrics like cotton, linen, and seersucker are breathable, making them ideal for spring and summer.
• Midweight wool, sometimes labeled as “tropical” wool, is a go-to for year-round versatility. It’s breathable but structured enough for cooler temps with the right layers.

Beyond weight, the weave also matters. A birdseye or herringbone adds subtle texture and visual depth to a suit. These details can make a solid-colored suit stand out, without veering into loud or trendy territory.

Final Take

A good suit is an investment, but a great tailor is the secret weapon. From helping you choose the right cut to explaining why fabric weight matters, a tailor ensures your suit does more than fit—it flatters. Whether you’re going tailored, made-to-measure, or full bespoke, the right advice and a little tailoring wisdom will help you make the best choice for your style and shape.